Happy 1st day of 2025!
2025, what the hell, eh? I still feel like I am back in 80s. I have historically had very bad luck with this day but so far, it's been wonderful even I was up until the time I normally get up (4 am).
I got charged to paddle out today (I was waiting for this) and put on the 4'3 with the arse blown out (it's old), grabbed my Donald Takayama noserider and headed out with my extra cool glove for hand protection. The water is dirty from 4 days of heavy rain but it's been 48 hours so it felt 'ok'.
I took some awesome waves after 6 weeks of nada. Body feels strong. Pop-up is awesome. Lungs feel good in the cold. Hand did spectacularly well with my home-made Michael Jackson glove for protection and I finished my session without even getting my hair wet. This photo is not from today but you get the idea. :)
Love the gentle little swell. Can mess about in them all day and still feel energised at the end of it. Your outstanding dedication to exposing the global bastardry is inspirational. After all the damage done to humanity by the corrupt cabal, one hopes DJT & Co see the necessity for, and leave no stone unturned in, imposing the most stringent consequences. Thank you, for all you’ve done, and in anticipation of that you are about to do. May the Force be with you.
Happy new year to you Dr. Rose. Keep up the good work.😊